Not sure. It’s a moot point though as a USB2.0 port is insufficient. It has to be USB3.0, preferably 3.2.

Do note that in good conditions, multi-link really isn’t needed, and if one of the connections is bad, disabling it can actually improve things.

You can manually set the channels for the dongles, you have to enable custom in Remote Play settings inside the Frame, there you can set a custom SSID, channel, etc.

You should create separate SSIDs for 6GHz and 5GHz, you want to stick to one or the other for the WiFi link. When using multi-link, the dongle will switch to whichever is not being used by the WiFi connection (Or always 6GHz, if the option to reserve it for the dongle is enabled). You are not using two 6GHz connections, it’s always 5+6GHz, as the Frame can only do two different connections at the same time. (Maybe that’s why you incorrectly assume 3 frames is the maximum in a room?)

Your router connection being a tad worse is probably because the frames are using 5GHz there (assuming the dongles are on 6GHz), and doing so on the same router? You’ll probably get better results disabling multi-link, and using only the dongles.

Transmit power is not the final say on the router side, check for features like “airtime fairness” and “transmission bursting” that trade latency for other things.

You can absolutely have more than 3 frames in a room, though for that kind of setup, you’d want to configure each of them to use specific, non-overlapping 6GHz channels (which is tricky as the dongles use hidden SSIDs that can’t see each other, and therefore avoid channel overlap). And you would need to use the dongle for this, as otherwise you’d need to get one router for each Frame, to enable them being on different channels.

You’d also want to disable multi-link, as again, to use it effectively you’d need both a dedicated router for each headset, as well as a dongle, in order for all connections to use separate channels.

But, this means that at 160MHz channel width, you can have up to 7 (in the US) Frames in the same space, (and technically also give each a 5GHz multi-link connection) each using an entirely separate and dedicated 6GHz connection. You might even be able to drop to 80MHz and do 14 Frames. The bandwidth should be sufficient.

Though when this saturated, you’d have so many people and their devices around, that people’s phones and PCs scanning for WiFi will cause interference. It might become necessary for people to put their other devices in airplane mode to stop them sending hotspot queries in the 6GHz range.

Vive trackers operate at much smaller datarates, and use the 2.4GHz range, they should not interfere with Frame streams.

Neat!

Rhythm games are definitely the “killer app” for me at least. Especially with Beat Saber the community mods have kept it fresh.

Others prefer synth riders or pistol whip.

There are some other single player experiences that one of my friends gushes about. Boneworks, Monstrum, Red Matter, Vertigo 2.

Multiplayer, is another thing that simply SHINES if you can get a group together. Echo Arena, Ready or Not, Dungeons of Eternity.

Some I haven’t played but which I want to are System Shock VR, Stride, Rumble, Underdogs, Into Black.

So THAT’S what the indent in the case is for!

I don’t know about anyone else, but the reason I say stuff like “fake frames, real flames” about nvidia, is that they include framegen in their performance stats.

As if it’s a tech that boosts actual performance. They use it to lie.

When they say “this card is twice as powerful as last gen” what they really mean is, it is exactly the same, but we turned on 2x framegen. Nevermind that there’s no reason you couldn’t do the same on the last gen card.

Download mode is definitely not a thing yet.

One of the things that’s a bother with the deck is having to leave it on and probably on the charger, if you want to install a couple hundred gigs of games.

Once that’s done, updates don’t take long on my connection so they haven’t been a problem.

But even better if they can pull off a mode where it can do updates while near-sleeping.

Yes, it should be safe to force a shutdown, and then re-doing the re-image.

I wish I could have protondb badges inside the desktop steam client.

Would be nice if this worked with linux in general.

It’s a great deck game.

You’ve got a typo there, it’s RPCS3, not RCPS3.

Use protondb ratings.

There’s a decky plugin that will show a steamdb badge on game pages (that also works as a shortcut to open the protondb page).

This seems like a prototype that they can make using the parts from the current deck.

I’m not sure the two square pads make sense on an actual controller, and I feel like those thumbsticks would be just out of comfortable reach.

It’s also what got me to finally go linux full-time.

I had tried to a couple times before, but always ran into one too many snags.

When the deck was announced I thought to myself “that can’t work with every game, can it?” as I’d attempted that myself.

But I had to see for myself, and the improvements in proton were staggering. And it’s gotten even better since! Who would have though Apex Legends, Hunt Showdown, and a bunch of other holdouts and anti-cheat games would be running on linux within a year of the deck releasing?

I’ll be waiting for a crack that circumvents this. If I get the game someday.

That sounds like exactly what I was getting

Like complete freezes followed by a reboot? Or straight to complete reboot?

I had that on my first unit, RMAd it and hasn’t happened again on the new one. I assumed it was some kind of faulty hardware component. Like the RAM or GPU.

Note that you can enable a setting in heroic to do that automatically. Then you just install all your gog games and heroic will make sure they show up in steam.

I’d really like AV1 support, and a resolution setting. Right now it records my 3440x1440 ultrawide as 1920x804.